Before the pandemic, there was a restaurant perched atop luxe downtown department store Forty Five Ten. Mirador, named for its view of the Dallas streets below, was just as breathlessly stylish and expensive as the rest of the building, a place for shoppers to escape from the crowds.
This past December, Mirador finally reopened. With pared-down service, a simplified menu, and an emphasis on seasonal veggies, it’s better than ever. Even those who don’t shop downstairs, like this author, would be wise to drop in.
Sensibly, Forty Five Ten hasn’t messed with Mirador’s gorgeous space. It still has a glamorous penthouse feel—those high ceilings and plate-glass windows, the wraparound balcony—and the booths are still as comfortable as ever. At peak times, the main dining room can get a little bit loud, since the only soft surfaces are the seats and paintings. But guests often linger into the calm midafternoon hours or find their way into the lounge-like private dining area. We heard a server tell one table, celebrating a birthday, to stay as long as they liked.
In Mirador’s previous life, the kitchen tried to have it both ways, serving casual food for shoppers but making those simple plates so fancy that the restaurant could also be a fine-dining destination. Dinner service got even more highbrow. Sometimes this balance worked; other times it led to confusion.
Now Mirador is aiming straight for the middle: nice bistro fare, with terrific seasonally oriented ingredients, available only at lunch. On a first visit, we were delighted by the attention to detail in our wintertime tuna crudo. The fish was plated with marinated and quartered tart gooseberries, slices of shishito peppers with the seeds removed to soften their heat, microgreens, and dots of dark green herb oil.
Tomato soup with a scoop of Parmesan cream showed the same commitment to getting the basics right. Mirador’s chicken paillard is a classic example, with a tender, nicely grilled (if suspiciously large) chicken breast and a host of bright accompaniments: fresh peas, pearl onions, pea sauce, shaved Parmesan, mizuna lettuce, and juice from a grilled lemon.
In general, it’s exciting to see Mirador lean into vegetables at their peak. The winter menu had celeriac, leeks, Castelfranco radicchio, and roasted broccoli with Szechuan chile crisp. Springtime brought baby lettuces and curly greens. This emphasis will make chef Travis Wyatt’s cooking even more appealing as warmer weather sets in. Thanks to his deft touch, Mirador has successfully reclaimed its place as one of downtown Dallas’ smartest, sharpest lunch spots. This penthouse is dressed to impress.
This story originally appeared in the May issue of D Magazine with the headline “A Cut Above.” Write to brian.reinhart@DMagazine.com.
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