Let’s get this out of the way: we all love Jimmy’s, the iconic Italian grocery that’s been serving East Dallas since 1966. We will always love Jimmy’s. But not everybody gets to live in East Dallas, and this city is big enough for more than one great Italian market. That’s why we’re excited about three new openings that are bringing specialty goods and loaded sandwiches—like Cenzo’s answer to Jimmy’s Italian Stallion—to new corners of our region. Let’s meet them.
Jimmy’s Food Store
4901 Bryan St. 214-823-6180.
Who They Are: The defending champions.
The Lowdown: Shop for fresh-made sausages, Italian wines, and huge jugs of olive oil, then walk back to the sandwich counter and pick out your lunch.
Signature Offering: The Italian Stallion, loaded with every cold cut you can imagine and half a rack of condiments, has inspired more afternoon naps than the committee hearings on C-Span.
Secret Weapon: It’s getting easier to find Chicago-style Italian beef in Dallas, but Jimmy’s may be the only game in town if you want to try its lesser-known cousin, the Philly roast pork. Who knew broccoli rabe could play such a pivotal role in a sandwich?
Ari’s Pantry
1307 1/2 W. Davis St. 214-549-4059.
Who They Are: An Italian-focused grocery-and-provisions store that opened on West Davis Street this winter.
The Lowdown: The first time we met Ari Lowenstein, he told us, “I opened this place because I was tired of driving to Jimmy’s.” His little shop doesn’t sell sandwiches or wine, but it has everything else, from top-notch imported meat and cheese to homemade tomato sauce. There are great pastas, jams, and even cookbooks. This fall, a new commercial kitchen will allow Ari’s to bake breads and sell take-home meals such as lasagna.
Signature Offering: You can find everything you need to make your own pizza here, from homemade tomato sauce to hot salami—plus expert staff advice on topping combos. Got some pizza dough and leftover broccoli? They’ll help you find the perfect cheese.
Secret Weapon: You might be offered a free bundle of fresh herbs with your purchase.
Cenzo’s Pizza and Deli
1700 W. 10th St. 972-773-9234.
Who They Are: A new neighborhood haunt in Winnetka Heights that’s equal parts bar, pizza joint, and sandwich spot.
The Lowdown: Vibes, vibes, and more vibes. Unlike its competition, Cenzo’s is designed for you to kick back and munch for a while, be it outside on the patio or at the bar watching the game.
Signature Sandwich: The Italian Deli boasts the usual suspects—four kinds of cold cuts plus provolone—but a nice tangle of vinegary greens and peppers makes this feel lighter and more refreshing than the Italian Stallion at Jimmy’s. Call it a welterweight champion sandwich, the sort you can finish and still have room for a pint.
Secret Weapon: The Fancy Fried Bologna delivers flavor worthy of its name, with pistachio butter and arugula balancing the salt and snap of the crispy meat to create something more robust. We haven’t eaten anything quite like it.
Enzo’s Deli & Imports
4017 Preston Rd., Ste. 535, Plano. 972-403-9463.
Who They Are: The latest addition to Plano’s loaded Lakeside Market, which already featured some of the suburbs’ best ice cream (Local Creamery), fresh fish (Sea Breeze), and pizza (Taverna Rossa).
The Lowdown: “Deli” is doing some heavy lifting, as the import section is petite. Enzo’s focuses on baking top-notch loaves for its sandwiches and making more from-scratch items for you to cook at home, including meatballs, pizza dough, and pints of vodka sauce.
Signature Sandwich: The Godfather packs on more meats than Mario Puzo has novels, but it’s not a salt lick. The secret is gorgeous house-made bread and a thin glaze of balsamic vinegar that keeps the cold cuts humble. At last, a worthy rival for the Italian Stallion.
Secret Weapon: You won’t look at a roast beef sandwich the same way after trying the Jamie’ RX, which gives the old lunchtime standby a glow-up with Calabrian chilis, fontina cheese, and fluffy ciabatta. Make sure to request it warm.
The Verdict
Need a last-minute dinner idea?
Head to Jimmy’s or Enzo’s.
Need great Italian groceries for your cooking adventure?
Your best bets are Ari’s and Jimmy’s.
Want to sit down with your deli sub?
Cenzo’s is the play.
Looking for the best Italian sandwich in town?
Here’s where we mix things up and declare a new champ: Enzo’s.
This story originally appeared in the August issue of D Magazine with the headline “Cold Cut Combat.” Write to feedback@dmagazine.com.
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Mike Piellucci
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