In hush harbors, hidden gatherings in the woods, enslaved people found a rare sanctuary to express their African spiritual traditions alongside Christianity. They blended these faiths to form a unique practice. These gatherings not only offered spiritual nourishment but also strengthened community ties. They also often culminated in shared meals that reinforced bonds through both faith and fellowship, echoing the communal eating practices that connected generations across the African diaspora. Moments like these were, perhaps, the original “Gospel Brunch.”
On November 17, the Fort Worth Food + Wine Foundation will debut a special kind of brunch that subtly nods to the humble beginnings of this Southern dining tradition. This new brunch takes inspiration from the rich “Dinner on the Ground” tradition, a longstanding ritual in Black Southern communities where churchgoers would gather after services to share food, fellowship, and gospel music. Originating from church revivals and community gatherings, Dinner on the Ground was the evolution of the hush harbors of a past era, and it has been a cornerstone of connection and resilience, reflecting a legacy where food and faith intertwine.
FWFWF’s “The Gospel Brunch” is an homage to community, heritage, and faith. Among the featured chefs are the brothers Cedric and Reggie Robinson, the culinary minds behind the awarded private dining and pop-up business Lil’ Boy Blue BBQ. Their offerings, along with dishes from chef Marcus Paslay, chef Katrina Carpenter of Carpenter’s Cafe and Catering, and James Beard Award nominee chef David Bull of Second Bar + Kitchen, promise to offer a diverse spread that elevates and celebrates Southern cuisine.
Reggie Robinson describes the setting as “family-style,” underscoring how the spirit of gathering and sharing remains at the heart of their dishes. “We want people to feel the spirit of community in every bite, just like in the old Dinner on the Ground days,” he says.
The Robinson brothers, also creators of the acclaimed Tha Cool Kids Supper Club dining experience, bring their own deep connection to this tradition, rooted in memories of their grandfather, George Franklin Francis.
Francis was known within his community as a man of deep faith and boundless generosity, who wore many hats ranging from janitor to butcher, roles through which he served over 600 families across six decades. One memory the brothers hold dear: Francis held hands before every meal and prayed, often just with three succinct words: “Father, I’m grateful.” The prayer was perhaps not as much for himself as it was a fervent reminder to anyone around him that gratitude is a choice. That lesson is central to the Robinsons’ cooking philosophy at Lil’ Boy Blue BBQ, where dishes are infused with soul, intentionality, and “heart work,” which is how the siblings refer to their labor.
At the brunch, the Robinsons will present an innovative take on shrimp and grits, one of the cornerstones of Southern cuisine. Their version is a bold, elevated twist, featuring smoked shrimp paired with creamy stone-ground Gouda grits, finished with a Cajun-infused beurre monté and accentuated by crispy garnishes of salty prosciutto. It’s a plate that, like their business, honors the power of sharing food as a form of community.
The brunch courses will be thoughtfully curated, showcasing dishes from some of the region’s finest chefs. The first course, prepared by David Bull, features a crawfish quiche “Lorraine,” elevated with pork belly, a fresh arugula salad, and rich brown butter. Katrina Carpenter, a Fort Worth favorite whose cafe recently reopened after renovations and expansion, follows with the second course of classic Southern chicken-fried chicken and waffles, topped with seasonal berries and a touch of whiskey sauce. For dessert, Marcus Paslay serves up a comforting banana bread pudding, drizzled with bourbon caramel, studded with Texas pecans, and topped with a generous dollop of Chantilly cream. Together, these courses reflect the richness and warmth of a Sunday gathering, where soulful dishes are the centerpiece of a meal that celebrates connection and gratitude.
The Robinson brothers bring a complementary balance to their culinary craft. Cedric, the creative force, describes himself as an “artist” in the kitchen, always pushing the boundaries and experimenting with flavor profiles to create something new. “I’m not interested in recreating the Mona Lisa,” he says. “I want to paint the next masterpiece.” Meanwhile, Reggie brings a more scientific, methodical approach, refining and perfecting the flavors that Cedric dreams up. As Reggie puts it, “I rinse and repeat. I make sure everything stays consistent.” Their teamwork is a dance of contrasts, each bringing their own flair while respecting the other’s strengths.
This event is an invitation to step into the legacy of Southern cuisine and to experience a Sunday meal where food, faith, and family intersect. With The Gospel Brunch, Fort Worth Food + Wine Foundation has created not just a culinary event, but a gathering that celebrates the resilience, creativity, and deep-rooted spirituality that has defined the Black Southern food experience, while making room at the table for new friends.
The Gospel Brunch, Sunday, November 17. $165 per person
