Amidst a sea of influencers and ten-step skincare routines, Vetted Dermlab is working to redefine clean beauty with products backed exclusively by science and data. Drs. Nina Botto, Lindy Fox, and Dallas-based Carina Woodruff founded the skincare brand after seeing the harms of common allergens found in mainstream skincare products and even experiencing these issues themselves. The three women sought to make products safe to use for people with allergies that also fill the need for a luxurious self-care ritual.
According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, contact dermatitis is the fifth most prevalent skin disease in the U.S., with $1.5 billion in medical costs each year. The three founders connected while working for the University of California, San Francisco, and are experts in contact dermatitis, skin reaction that occurs from contact with a substance, and a frequent issue with personal care products. The brand launched at an allergy conference hosted by the American Contact Dermatitis Society in March 2023.
“We thought wouldn’t it be nice if you could go to the shelf and pick a line that you knew when you picked it off that shelf to use that it wasn’t going to cause problems now, has a very low potential for you to cause problems in the future and was also created by people who spend their time thinking about skin and skin health,” Fox says. “That felt like a gift that we could give to people like our patients and the general consumer who may not have access to a dermatologist.”
The doctors say that there is a lack of awareness about contact dermatitis despite a significant increase in allergic reactions specifically attributed to personal care products in the last decade. They say that although a customer may not be allergic to an ingredient initially, increased exposure increases the likelihood of developing allergies that can be lifelong. Additionally, the rise of the clean beauty movement has paved the way for misinformation and false advertising, which not only makes it difficult for consumers to find the best products for their skin but could also be causing more harm than good.
Woodruff is the director of the Epiphany Skin Allergy Institute in Dallas. Epiphany Dermatology is headquartered in Austin and has 77 locations in 13 states from Montana to South Carolina. “We vetted every single ingredient based on data to determine the likelihood that it causes irritation and allergies on the skin,” Woodruff says. “We also to use robust ingredients that had a very well-established evidence base. We didn’t want to use gimmicky stuff that was trendy. Then, we also considered sustainability because we really do care about that element of clean beauty. We just thought that it should be done with the scientific lens in mind.”
Once the team found a lab, they spent about a year creating and finalizing products before launching in March 2023. Vetted Dermlab currently has five products: a cleanser, a vitamin C serum, a retinoid serum, a lightweight moisturizer, and a rich moisturizer. In addition to being sold through e-commerce, they can also be found at some concierge beauty stores throughout Dallas and San Francisco. Fellow dermatologists and allergists also carry Vetted products in their offices. The brand also launched a program that allows dermatologists, allergists, and other healthcare providers to sample products to their patients.
“Other dermatologists have been critical because they’re helping us spread awareness of this condition and teach consumers wise skin care,” Woodruff says. “Lines like ours are what everybody should be gravitating to, whether you already have sensitized skin or want to prevent that in the future.”
The brand is still testing and learning what resonates with its consumers, but has seen steady growth and a ramping up of marketing efforts recently. The business is 96 percent direct-to-consumer, and expansion plans include more business-to-business contracts with dermatology clinics and other medical offices and boutiques. Vetted Dermlab’s customer retention rate is 48 percent this year, far exceeding industry average. The company is projected to reach $1 million in revenue in the next 24 months – a significant accomplishment considering its low overhead on marketing and operations. “We are excited for Vetted Dermlab’s runway as we enter the next phase of our business,” Woodruff says.
As for the future, the dermatologists will continue to keep the brand simple and focus on skin care pillars. The dermatologists say that due to FDA regulations of UV filters, formulation of a quality sunscreen that is hypoallergenic will be challenging to create. The co-founders hope to expand the brand thoughtfully and slowly to ensure the best quality for the final products.
“We have had to figure it out along the way because there’s so much that we don’t know,” Botto says. “That’s been challenging because when training to be a doctor, there are these landmarks and road markers along the way, tests, and there’s sort of a plan you follow. But there’s no book you can buy on how to launch an elevated hypoallergenic skincare brand”
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